Crop Rotation, Why Bother?
It's that time when we start thinking about where everything's going to go on the plot this year. Some people keep a sketch or plan to remind themselves what they grew where last year. Crop rotation simply means not growing the same plants in the same place each year. There are two main reasons to do this:
1. To prevent the build-up of pests and diseases which attack specific plants, such as club root in brassicas and onion white rot. The number of these soil-based pests will decline in the years when the host plants are absent.
2. To prevent nutrient depletion in the soil. As different crops have different nutrient requirements, changing the crops annually will reduce the chance of particular soil deficiencies developing.
You should aim not to grow the same type of plant in an area of soil for as long as possible – four years preferably. By 'type of plant', we mean plant families - plants which have the same characteristics, and therefore the same enemies. For example, there is no point moving your onions to a new patch of earth this year if you then grow a related crop, such as leeks or garlic, in the bed where your onions were last year. There are five main plant families – Brassicas (which include khol-rabi, radishes and swedes), Legumes (peas, beans etc.), Potatoes (and tomatoes), Onions (garlic, leeks) and Root crops.
A simple way to rotate your crops is to have five or six beds on your plot; grow a different plant family in a bed each year and simply move them all round clockwise by one each year. An advantage of this method is that all the plants in one area have the same needs, both in terms of soil and cultivation. For example, your brassicas will love lots of manure and water whereas your carrots want a poorer soil. If you follow your peas and beans with your brassicas they will benefit from the nitrogen left in the soil. Root crops don't like too rich a soil, so plant them where your potatoes or brassicas were last year. Put unrelated crops such as courgettes, squashes, sweetcorn etc. wherever they will fit in.
However, if you don’t want the same type of vegetables all together in a bed, another way to do it is to group your plants together by watering requirements. This has the advantage of meaning you only have to water a few of your beds in very dry spells.
If this all sounds too organised, then just mix everything up and grow a row or two of a variety of plants in each bed – say some onions, broad beans, potatoes, lettuces, peas, beetroot, carrots, cabbages, dwarf beans etc. If you have a fair idea where you grew things last year the chances of repeating your pattern in the same bed are slim (taking photos can help).
The advantages of the last option are many - you can practise companion planting; air-borne pests are confused and less likely to lay eggs on your crops; and if you throw in a few rows of flowers you will improve the diversity of your plot and encourage beneficial insects. All of which means that your crops should be healthier and there will be less need for pest control.
1. To prevent the build-up of pests and diseases which attack specific plants, such as club root in brassicas and onion white rot. The number of these soil-based pests will decline in the years when the host plants are absent.
2. To prevent nutrient depletion in the soil. As different crops have different nutrient requirements, changing the crops annually will reduce the chance of particular soil deficiencies developing.
You should aim not to grow the same type of plant in an area of soil for as long as possible – four years preferably. By 'type of plant', we mean plant families - plants which have the same characteristics, and therefore the same enemies. For example, there is no point moving your onions to a new patch of earth this year if you then grow a related crop, such as leeks or garlic, in the bed where your onions were last year. There are five main plant families – Brassicas (which include khol-rabi, radishes and swedes), Legumes (peas, beans etc.), Potatoes (and tomatoes), Onions (garlic, leeks) and Root crops.
A simple way to rotate your crops is to have five or six beds on your plot; grow a different plant family in a bed each year and simply move them all round clockwise by one each year. An advantage of this method is that all the plants in one area have the same needs, both in terms of soil and cultivation. For example, your brassicas will love lots of manure and water whereas your carrots want a poorer soil. If you follow your peas and beans with your brassicas they will benefit from the nitrogen left in the soil. Root crops don't like too rich a soil, so plant them where your potatoes or brassicas were last year. Put unrelated crops such as courgettes, squashes, sweetcorn etc. wherever they will fit in.
However, if you don’t want the same type of vegetables all together in a bed, another way to do it is to group your plants together by watering requirements. This has the advantage of meaning you only have to water a few of your beds in very dry spells.
If this all sounds too organised, then just mix everything up and grow a row or two of a variety of plants in each bed – say some onions, broad beans, potatoes, lettuces, peas, beetroot, carrots, cabbages, dwarf beans etc. If you have a fair idea where you grew things last year the chances of repeating your pattern in the same bed are slim (taking photos can help).
The advantages of the last option are many - you can practise companion planting; air-borne pests are confused and less likely to lay eggs on your crops; and if you throw in a few rows of flowers you will improve the diversity of your plot and encourage beneficial insects. All of which means that your crops should be healthier and there will be less need for pest control.
Submitted by Tigger
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